(full text through lexis nexis...)
3.12.2008
3.06.2008
current events
3.05.2008
fall 2008 fashion weeks
new york:
- threeasfour
- ralph lauren
- rag and bone
- charles nolan
- vera wang
london
- roksanda illincic
- christopher kane
- erdem
- gareth pugh
milan
- emporio armani
- burberry prorsum
- bottega veneta
- prada
- gucci
- iceberg
- dolce and gabbana
paris
- victor and rolf
- balenciaga
- akris
- andrew gn
- chrisian lacroix
- emanuel ungaro
- dries van noten
- rick owens
- stella mccartney
- valentino
- giambattista valli
- celine
- alexander mcqueen
- rue du amil
- lanvin
an obvious preference for overseas designers...
random from my phone
letty lynton
if only
so many times i've lamented the state of the fashion industry today in comparison with how it used to function for most of the 20th century. i had never quite figured out why it bothered me -- the speed, the knock offs, the competition...
maybe its because i see high fashion more as an art form than a business plan. to me its a chance to exercise creativity, producing something unique, innovative, interesting without working in a traditional artistic sense. artists are given time to develop ideas...while they do depend on selling their paintings, thats not their main thought -- they arent constantly under a time table or constantly pushed to do something radically different every time. fashion designers used to be like that too...fashion moved more slowly, so the art of designing could be practiced.
if only we could get back to that sensitivity...
holes
inspired by the pattern magic books...i found them at kinokuniya, thanks to my previous methods teacher
holes -- passageway -- both going in and coming out
organic shaped holes in outer layer -- all match up on edges
contrasting piping to emphasize
chiffon overlay with holes and piping -- see contrasting print underneath
gives impression of holes flowing over body
evening wear -- very constructed holes and shapes
mummification
a linen gown -- huge train
yards and yards of fabric, wrapped all up to shoulders/neck/face
linen? muslin? -- unbleached
rough vs elegant silhouette
our many deaths
Lady Lazarus
Sylvia Plath
I have done it again.
One year in every ten
I manage it --
A sort of walking miracle, my skin
Bright as a Nazi lampshade,
My right foot
A paperweight,
My face a featureless, fine
Jew linen.
Peel off the napkin
O my enemy.
Do I terrify? --
The nose, the eye pits, the full set of teeth?
The sour breath
Will vanish in a day.
Soon, soon the flesh
The grave cave ate will be
At home on me
And I a smiling woman.
I am only thirty.
And like a cat I have nine times to die.
This is Number Three.
What a trash
To annihilate each decade.
What a million filaments.
The peanut-crunching crowd
Shoves in to see
Them unwrap me hand and foot --
The big strip tease.
Gentlemen, ladies,
These are my hands,
My knees,
I may be skin and bone,
Nevertheless, I am the same, identical woman.
The first time it happened I was ten.
It was an accident.
The second time I meant
To last it out and not come back at all.
I rocked shut
As a seashell.
They had to call and call
And pick the worms off me like sticky pearls.
Dying
Is an art, like everything else
I do it exceptionally well.
I do it so it feels like hell.
I do it so it feels real.
I guess you could say I've a call.
It's easy enough to do it in a cell.
It's easy enough to do it and stay put.
Its the theatrical
Comeback in broad day
To the same place, the same face, the same brute
Amused shout:
"A miracle!"
That knocks me out.
There is a charge
For the eyeing of my scars, there is a charge
For the hearing of my heart --
It really goes.
And there is a charge, a very large charge,
For a word or a touch
Or a bit of blood.
Or a piece of my hair or my clothes.
So, so, Herr Doktor.
So, Herr Enemy.
....
how do we think of death? what is dying?
from ted dekker's blink:
"Miriam had once told her mother that a saudi woman dies three times during her span on earth. she dies on the day of her menses, when she is forced to don the black veil and slip into obscurity; she dies on the day of her wedding, when she is given as a possession to a stranger; and, most mercifully, she dies when she finally gives up her ghost. the statement had earned her a slap."
little house on the prairie
i know that designers have been inspired by bohemian looks a lot...but what if you took fashions on the prairie and transform them? how do you give it an edge?
shame
what is shame a product of?
is it inherent? do we learn it?
is it good? is it bad?
some say that shame teaches us to stay within the limits of what is socially acceptable..in a good way. but doesnt shame hinder us in so many ways?
sometimes i feel like shame is taught by parents, taught at as young an age as possible. they were ashamed, so they shame their children...what would it be to live without harmful shame?
what does shame look like? -- bent over, head down, curved back, submission -- showing that in fashion??
similar to pain -- how does it change us? how does it constrict us? prohibit us from moving forward? how does it make us look different?
what else constricts?
- boxes
- straight jackets
- prison
- ropes
- impressions
- lack of self confidence
men vs women
- do we have equality? should we? what does it look like?
- what is proper?
- should a woman stay home? is it okay to run for power?
- what is the masculine/feminine relationship? what should it be?
- aprons vs suits vs ties vs sex appeal
so many ideas
random brainstorming from my notebook:
- bullfighters
- jockey
- pope -- elaboration, shape
- janitor -- juxtaposition (remember richard's quote?)
- referee
- manhole covers -- detail
- trash heap -- texture, color, shape
- land fill -- like the one by penn state -- old cars, etc
- rusty cars
- nesting dolls
- rhinoceros
- construction sites*
- safaris
- african tribes
- arctic chill -- what would you wear?
- farmers
- make clothes look like sketches -- rough, linear
- mta transportation -- subways, buses, taxis, trains
- bicycles
- faberge eggs
- windows -- rose windows, guggenheim roof
- textures*
- hot air balloons
- buddha
- fishing*
- poetry*
- slavery
- prison
- binding
- casinos -- cards, showy, gaudy
- early electronics -- line, color, awkwardness
- neon sign
*construction sites
- screws
- cranes
- orange/yellow
- reflectors
- silver
- dark grey
- vests
- huge machinery
- dust
- rough -- ability to get dirty
- ny times new building
*textures
- grasslands
- old quilts
- corrugated cardboard
- old gates/fences
- baskets
*fishing
- nets
- sea spray
- hooks
- ocean -- all different colors, moods
- lines
- ropes
- knots
- sails
*poetry
- rhyming
- syncopation
- symmetry
- sound
- flowing vs. staccato
- meter
artists:
- rauschenberg
- klimt
- egon schiele
- matisse
- rothko
- jasper johns
contradiction
being sophisticated vs. being fierce
if i'm not thinking, i tend towards understated glamour but quickly become dissatisfied... secretly, i really just want to be like the women in helmut newton's photographs...
3.04.2008
beetles
maybe redo my denim project's beetle inspiration in something soft? --> juxtaposition
random ideas:
- CDs - shine? shape? texture? reflection? holds information invisibly?
- electrical wires - colorful, linear
- sheet music - rhythm, lines, shapes, flow, dynamics
- football uniforms - seam lines
- hula hoops
- bike streamers
- inner tubes
- bad mitton
- nets of all sorts - how they're knotted together, shapes, attachments, uses
i'm not a feminist but...
niloufar brought up in class how ridiculous a statement that is. feminism has become such a horrible thing to claim to be unless you want to be associated with butch lesbians in man clothing who haven't a regard for anything sacred... yet so many of my own ideas could be called "feminist" in the traditional sense of the word.
in days like the ones we're living in now, when women have more rights and opportunities than they ever have before, it angers me when my gender gives those up for something less. i can respect dreams and goals...and if a woman genuinely dreams about that for their own life, then so be it. but when they give it up or when they have no passion or direction for their life, and end up as a housewife because of it, it makes me cringe. they have the chance to do something amazing...why not take it? do they take for granted their freedom of choice?
how do you show that in the clothing you design? maybe clothes that look stereotypically housewife-ish with a deriding twist? subject the housewife to ridicule and criticism through clothing...
from a book in pottery barn
hidden emotion
i'm a shell full of churning, rushing lava, boiling, roiling, trying to escape.
hmm interesting imagery. but seriously, so much of the time it feels like i'm just covering a true emotional passion with this paper thin layer...any day now it could just burst or rip and with a whoosh, i'd empty and collapse flat to the floor.
how do you convey that?
trees
using the branches of a bare winter tree as inspiration, how do you translate that into a garment?
- gathering like branches...random all over
- slashing and paning to show what's underneath
- huge skirt with lots of visible structure...like an upside down tree -- or like the roots, with the rest built up in an avant garde way over the head and shoulders
- huge volume on top, balanced over something much tighter
linda larson
i couldn't believe it but i actually liked mrs. larson's dress one sunday in church...dont let anyone know i actually admitted to that. mental note: it had horizontal pleats across the back of the shoulders that opened into full sleeves. dont really remember the rest...
3.01.2008
more new yorker
i remember reading about a christmas tree decorated with all manner of fanciful things...like dragons and peacocks and unicorns. sounds like the perfect inspiration for a line of fall/winter clothing.
its a thing for the imagination...none of the pictures i could find do justice to what i have in my mind.
hula hoops
i read an article in the new yorker back in november about a performance art piece -- people with hula hoops spinning on roof tops. it sounded so dream-like...the innocence of the hula hoops mixed with the grit of the city and the soaring roofs...
a third notebook
a few ideas for altering clothes
- using a vintage dress, cut below the bust line...either use the top half and attach it to a t-shirt or vice versa
- use a x-large cotton t-shirt, preferably striped...attach ribbons and buttons like suspenders, pulling in the shirt's fullness
clothes that i've already designed that i'd love to make
- denim sleeveless dress (from beetle inspired collection)
- vintage inspired dress with large bow in back (remember girl from the rugby store who made her own?)
- jersey tank dress with multiple back straps
- dropped hip skirt with large, long pockets (like design for first semester digital)
- similar shirt dress to the DVF dress avotke wore for drawing
- jacket etc from japan competition collection?
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